Appreciating Pune's Past

Early Sunday morning, a band of intrepid yoginis took off for a sunrise walking tour of Pune.  Crossing the Shivaji bridge, we caught the first glimpse of the golden orb as our architect/historian tour guide helped us imagine the Pune of early centuries, where citizens would come down to the water to bathe.  

The Shaniwar Wada, where the Peshwas lived for many decades, was a 7-story palace once.  Now just the fortification walls remain.  

The door was designed to keep away invaders riding on elephants.  

Note the sun and moon emblem above the spikes symbolizing the eternal rule of the empire.

I remember touring some of the next sites with a local resident last time and discussing how sad it was that the beautiful old buildings were not being taken care of.  This tour, sponsored in part by an organization whose two fold mission is to fund and restore these treasures AND to teach city residents about their own heritage, is one of Pune's transformations since my last visit.  

The wadas - or traditional homes in Maharastsra, featuring ante rooms, courtyards, fountains and facades -- are in various states of restoration. Depending on the wealth of the owner, the wada might have several of these courtyards, separating the spaces nearer the front door for visitors from the private spaces like the courtyard below intended for the women and children. 

Our architect - guide was particularly giddy about the no-nail joinery of the wooden structures.

Lotus symbols galore

Not yet restored. Note the clerestory window above the larger shuttered one.  These were a feature throughout the old city, allowing light to come in when the larger windows were closed.

Peacock and two parrots

The famous Kasba Ganapati Mandir, temple to Ganesh, the patron deity of Pune, built in the 18th Century and still used today.  No shoes and no photos inside!  Ganesh deserves his own posting, so more on him another day. 

Offerings and flower garlands for the deities...of note, the dear lady selling the wares is 102 years old!  Imagine the history she has witnessed...

Coming up next:  Diwali, Food, Geeta's Classes and Ganesh.  Stay tuned!